the island of Hvar

Long and narrow, Hvar lies off Brac and the Croatian coast; from above the 300 sq km island looks like an inhabited breakwater - and like an aromatic bath it smells when one is there. Especially in the east, largely undeveloped for tourism, lavender and rosemary, wild citrus fruits and cypresses grow rampantly among old villages and farms. In the west, the population centre of the fourth largest of all the Adriatic islands, comfortable hotel complexes, a pleasantly constant climate and a coastline on which everyone finds a private bathing bay await the visitor. Anyone wanting to commute between the two worlds of the "lavender island" can either choose the 84 km long main road or let off steam with a mountain bike on the attractive cycling trails - that way the swim at your destination is even more fun. Anyone wanting to fortify the body after the exploratory tours should on Hvar definitely get to know the lamb dishes, rosemary honey, ham and cheese as well as the famous oils. These specialities even put the island wine in the shade, which not only Hvar's 11,000 inhabitants consider extraordinarily good - enjoy your meal!

The mainland town closest to the island is Makarska, but this is not where you should drive if you want to cross over. From Split, somewhat further north, up to 5 ferries cross daily; in the town of Hvar, however, you cannot disembark with your car, only in Stari Grad. Further ferries shuttle between the island of Hvar and Drvenik, Vela, Vis, Rijeka, Rab and Zadar. And on the island too there is a dense network of public transport: buses call at even the smallest village several times a day and are often more comfortable than dodging the sure-driving but inconsiderate lorries in your own car on the often dusty roads.

Even though visitors less interested in an active holiday like to claim that the mere motivation to lie on all of Hvar's beautiful beaches can degenerate into a genuine sports programme (which is undoubtedly true!), the island will not be deprived of offering adventure and exercise in addition:

In almost all the coastal villages, experienced diving instructors stand ready to bring the colourful, varied underwater world closer to visitors and locals. After a theoretical introduction you soon set off into the sea with the group, depending on the offer either right at the beach or out on the open sea from a boat. Anyone who wishes can obtain a diving certificate relatively cheaply and afterwards go "fish-watching" alone with rented equipment for as long as they like. Don't forget the sun cream!

In the island's interior in particular the bicycle is a popular means of getting about: the not-too-steep slopes and the mostly well-built roads invite you to explore the landscape by your own muscle power, and the refreshing breeze of the ride compensates for the effort on the climbs. Besides the option of simply asking your host for his bike, there are many small hire stations where you can rent bicycles by the hour, the day or the holiday as required. Anyone who wants more than just to get from A to B and already sees the journey as the destination can also join a cycling group, several of which pedal across the island each day.

Anyone who has so far only hiked in the Alps can take on a new challenge here: Hvar's peaks are nowhere near as high and also far less steep, but the warm climate has already forced many a walker to take a break or even turn back. In this sport in particular it is indispensable to take plenty of water along - after all, you want to reach the end and reward yourself with a spectacular panoramic view over the island or a refreshing swim in a hidden bay. Besides the physical challenge there is also the mental one, when you try to keep in mind all the interesting details the guides offer up about the local plants, animals and villages.

It is not only the luxury hotels and elite sports clubs that have had tennis courts built on Hvar. Tennis is a veritable popular sport in Croatia, one that for many Croats is simply part of a successful weekend. So everywhere among shade-giving pines there are well-kept clay courts, some of which may even be used free of charge. Rackets and balls can be borrowed for a fair fee. Now all you have to do is agree with all the other tennis fans on who may occupy the court and when - or whether you might not rather play a few doubles straight away.

Minigolf is so popular here not only because the small island of Hvar would hardly want to spare the space needed for a large "real" golf course. It is above all a relaxed, sociable and varied leisure activity. Concentration and skill matter more than strength and fitness, so that you can happily play one or more rounds even in the midday heat. The courses are usually within walking distance of the larger beaches and are mostly still open in the later evening hours, though because of the mild air they are then sometimes overcrowded as well.