Hvar

4,000 people live in Hvar all year round - and the high season lasts almost as long. In summer sun worshippers and seafarers are drawn to the town; in winter it is not only spa guests who enjoy the mild climate. The promenade and the beach can therefore easily seem overcrowded, but anyone looking for company will certainly find new friends here quickly. And anyone who sets no store by that simply "boards" one of the little boats and has themselves taken to one of the lonely Pakleni Otoci islands in the vicinity, where the most company you will have is Friday - though that way you miss the street artists, souvenir stalls and the often very good restaurants and bars in Hvar's old town.

Although the region in which today's Hvar is located was already settled in Roman and Greek times, and the Illyrians built an imposing defiant stronghold here, significance came to the place only in the year 1278 with its elevation to a bishopric. Until 1571 Hvar profited from the usual building boom of the Venetians: the fortress and the town walls as well as a number of town houses were erected, and numerous farming families of the surrounding farms were drawn into the emerging metropolis. But after a devastating victory by the Turks everything lay in ruins. As one of the few buildings the cathedral survived the attacks - at least until 1612 - reasonably undamaged - which pleased not only the Christians but also the lovers of culture of the place, this house of God having been the town's theatre as well ever since the 14th century. The works of Hektorovic and Lucic were premiered here. After a phase of French rule the population went over to accommodating foreigners instead of letting themselves be conquered by them: tourism made its entry into Hvar.

The Spanish fortress was - contrary to what the name suggests - erected in the year 1557 by the Venetians; Spaniards themselves were involved in the building only as cheap labour. As if not to rob today's amphora museum entirely of its former significance, cannons aimed at the sea still stand on the roof terrace today. Between 8 and 24:00 in summer and from 9 to 18:00 in winter, for an entrance fee of about 2 euros, one can enjoy the view of the old town, the town wall and the generously overgrown landscape on the slopes of the citadel.

Between the old town and the Spanish fortress, the Benedictine abbey lies on the slope among cacti, oleander and carob trees. Here the nuns found plenty of time to devote themselves to embroidery alongside prayer and garden work. From agave threads they made lace doilies and perfected the art of ever more imaginative motifs and more complicated forms. Particularly beautiful pieces are exhibited in the convent today, right next to the Lucić collection of paintings and icons.

Dalmatia's largest square is in Hvar. Where once one army after another marched across the gleaming marble slabs, café visitors now sit in the sun and enjoy the recommendable Croatian baked goods. In the middle stands the obligatory fountain - but it is far more interesting to watch the people. This is where you go to see and be seen.

The cathedral of Hvar was built in the Renaissance style around the remains of a Gothic monastery church. In the 17th century the Benedictines and generous families added Baroque altars - of the original little village church only what is perceived today as the nave remained, along with the Madonna from the 13th century. The bell tower of St Stephen's church and its chancel are regarded as prime examples of particularly aesthetic architecture - they outshine the otherwise rather darkly kept building. You can visit Sv. Stjepan daily from 9 to 12 and from 17 to 19:00. Outside opening hours, classical concerts are held regularly as well.

Once the island had been taken and the enemies pushed back far enough, the Venetians no longer knew what to do with their war galleys. So between 1579 and 1611 they erected the arsenal on the main square. Later Prince Semitecolo initiated the building of a further storey, and from then on Hvar was the seat of Europe's first communal theatre. After frequent use and almost as many renovations, today you sit in boxes from the 18th century, but instead of watching actors at work you look at modern paintings by international artists. The arsenal is open daily from 9 to 13:00 and from 17 to 23:00.