the island of Vis

Ten miles off the mainland at the level of Hvar lies the island of Vis, 17 km long and half as wide. The little island that has such an idyllic effect today, with just two larger places (2,000 inhabitants between them) and one mountain, was of great significance for all the wars that shook the country of Croatia in the last century: not only that during the Yugoslav war access to the island was controlled by the military and forbidden to foreigners on principle, but as early as the Second World War Vis and Mount Hum played a decisive role: the rebel and politician Tito organised the uprising against the German Wehrmacht from here. History has, however, left astonishingly few traces on the isle, so that between bathing bays and vineyards, within sight of several little islands and in the company of local fishermen, one can hardly think of anything more tragic than that the sun cream will soon be used up.

From Split you have the choice between two ferry lines that will bring you to your holiday island in just under two hours. Tickets can be bought directly at the harbour. If you do not want to see other places in Croatia beforehand, it may be more practical to travel directly by boat from Italy. There you would set out from the port of Ancona. To get to your holiday house on the island, buses, taxis or private shuttle services are at your disposal. You will find these beyond the waterfront promenade, which is closed to motor vehicles other than residents'

On the island's south coast, behind the old fish cannery, there are many bathing beaches, but you can enjoy sun and sea close to town as well: in Vis there is a hotel-owned gravel beach that everyone is allowed to use. Here you can also rent deckchairs and sunshades for a fee. The public beaches lie north of the town, and if you prefer fresh water you will find Lake Stončica 5 km from the Kut district. In Komiža there are likewise beaches maintained by hotels, but also daily excursion trips to the islands with the option of a swimming stop out on the open sea.

Water sports enthusiasts will probably never be able to agree on whether the sea off Vis is more beautiful above or below the surface: while sailors rave about the picturesque little islands and the gentle breeze, divers counter with the sunken ships in which corals and fish have now nested and which make them appear like surreal sculptures. The slightly morbid atmosphere of swimming through a wreck is more than balanced out by the splendour of colour and the wealth of species of the life here; but away from these artificial reefs too the marine flora and fauna is in no way inferior to that of the land.

The diving centre in Komiza offers 7-day courses at the end of which one receives a diving licence and, in between, explores the varied diving grounds of the Dalmatian island world. Anyone who can already dive books shipwreck tours or night excursions here: www.diving.hr/idc The contact in Vis is the Hotel Issa: Tel. 711311

An excellent path leads walkers from Komiža to Vis in 5-6 hours. On the plateau you can enjoy the fine view that you have honestly earned after the ascent. Anyone wanting a shorter walk can also take a flight of 100 steps up to the Tito caves near Komiža. From there it is not far to the north coast either, where refreshing bathing bays await rare visitors.

The sea wind and Mount Hum offer ideal conditions for floating over Croatia's island landscape with a paraglider for once. Anyone who finds that too dizzying can join a guided mountain-bike tour or hire a bicycle under their own steam and explore the island. For really fit and ambitious guests, free-climbing courses are also offered regularly. For those, however, one should be no less free of vertigo than for paragliding.