Waterfalls and river course in Krka

Four kilometres east of the settlement of Knin the river Krka rises. Through the Kninsko polje valley it reaches the gorge in which it will continue its course. In addition the river is fed by the Butisnica, which flows into the Krka just behind the stronghold at Knin, whereby the original "meeting point" of the two rivers lay further upstream, but the artificially created one at this spot also marks the entrance to the national park. From here one follows the Krka 12 km downstream in order to reach the first waterfall: the Bilusic-buk falls almost 20 metres deep and is divided mainly into two large cascades. Through slight "conversion measures" applied to nature, regular flooding was prevented here too, and following the river's course a further 2 km one comes to the lake Brkljansko jezero, which also serves as a reservoir when there is much precipitation. At 1,300 x 400 metres it offers sufficient room and water to feed the waterfall that follows.

At a height of 15.5 metres above its further course the Krka overcomes the Brkljan barriers, whose road route at the same time made possible the connection between the places Drnis and Kistanje. Manojlovac, the following cascade, is the highest of the park: here the water overcomes almost 60 metres in several steps. One waterfall plunges 32 metres into the depths, smaller falls seem to join it as if on purpose, at another spot rapids bead over large pebbles, the gorge rises in its further course to over 200 metres above the river bed, and from the viewpoint above the Manojlovac, on the road between Knin and Kistanje, one has the best view of this spectacle. Besides the impressive nature, however, the stone arches that are called "hollow church" (Suplja crkva) here also attract attention. These remains of a Roman military camp and of the settlement of Burnum, erected around a plateau, were still inhabited into the 7th century; today only the remains can be found - which bear witness at once to the splendour of the old inhabitants and to the power of nature and the change of the times. The next waterfall that the river has ahead of it is Rosnjak, at which the masses of water plunge 8.4 m vertically into the depths with a roar, without having to overcome several steps or ledges. To the left and right of it the walls of the gorge rise; the waterfall and the river course lying below it are almost inaccessible, and in this landscape one is immediately reminded of western films and adventures of the Wild West.

Access to the river becomes far better a kilometre further on at the Miljacka group of waterfalls, so that a power station was built here in 1906 as well. This once largest hydroelectric plant in Europe joins by a tunnel the falls of Brljan, Manojlovac, Rošnjak and Miljacka and draws energy from their movement. Merely to be able to feed the tunnel system with enough water in the first place for electricity to be generated continuously, all the water had to be diverted in here for half a year. At that time the upper waterfalls dried up and the national park entrance was set up below the waterworks. But once the tunnels were sufficiently filled the old falls formed again; the entrance has been at the same place ever since, and along with the generation of energy the river level is regulated as well, so that neither droughts nor floods can occur. Another two kilometres towards the coast, two medieval castles are enthroned on both sides of the river. In the west stands Trošenj, which is also called Čučevo; in the east Nečven keeps watch. Both bulwarks were built in the fourteenth century by famous and wealthy families, conquered by the Turks in 1522 and remained occupied until 1686. Afterwards the buildings stood empty, and winds, rainfall and the turn of the seasons bring them ever closer to their status as ruins. In the valley, by contrast, the river Krka seems more alive than ever: rapids and loud roaring, the acceleration of the water through the extremely narrow course of the gorge and, again and again, shallows make the river, so calm further up, hardly recognisable. The Krka becomes more leisurely only at the widening of Aranđelovac, which is depicted on countless postcards. Here, not far from the bank, lies the Orthodox monastery of Sveti Arhanđel, named after one of the archangels, though because of its situation the designation Manastir Krka is popular as well. The complex with church and farm buildings was mentioned as early as 1402, yet into the eighteenth century the architecture was refined and ever new elements added. The fertile marl-bearing soil provides, with downy oak, oriental hornbeam, ash and maple, the lush green contrast to the radiant blue of the river.

On the lake between the vertical rock faces, between the Bogočin monastery and the Roški barrier 6 km away, excursion boats sail, and along the 150 m high cliffs on both sides the more athletic park visitors hike. Beyond that the river's course widens over a length of 650 m to 450 m in width. In doing so the water flows over numerous shallows and glacial boulders, steps and barriers, small channels and flat rises, so that the glittering surface is more reminiscent of strings of pearls or silver plumes than something one would actually want to call a waterfall. In the midst of this beauty, called Roški slap, little islands rise out of the water, and at the end the water does after all fall the last remainder of the 27 metres of height that it overcomes in this stretch of river.

At the foot of the falls there is a waterworks with a mill, in which traditional grain processing, ancient washing methods and the power station itself are demonstrated. One can visit the falls of the Roski slap either with an excursion boat or from land: a road leads here from Drnis, and a bridge is soon to be built over the most beautiful spot of the whirlpools and rapids. In the third and last part of the river - the Krka is commonly divided from its source to the Miljacka fall and then again as far as Roski slap, since its course, the volume of water and the surrounding nature differ greatly along the whole stretch, but are relatively similar within the sections - one is first offered the view of a lake 1 km long and 300 m wide, surrounded by marshland and gentle mountain slopes. The lake is closed off by the Medu gredama gorge, at the entrance to which the Kamicak fortress was once built. Today only the ruins of the structure, planned in the 13th century, survive - one more reason to envy the lords of the house of that time their beautiful view! With a walk from Bristane one can at least visit the famous Suplja Stina cave with its three openings and let one's gaze wander over the unique backdrop. A successful contrast to this is formed by the view from the boat, when one travels along the 150 m high vertical rock faces on water that is in places only 50 m wide. After following the river's course for 500 m, the gorge suddenly opens up again and reveals the view of the Visovacko jezero.

This greatest expanse between two waterfalls in the whole park terrain, at 3 km x 500-1,000 m, is famous above all because of the island lying in its middle: on about one hectare of artificially raised land a church and a monastery were built, which are still inhabited today. Yet while in the 14th century hermits were still trying to hide from the world here, today's monks are so pleased about visitors that guests who drive up directly to the lake shore on the road from the east are gladly fetched and taken across by boat in person too. Things are particularly lively on the island on 2 and 15 August, when pilgrims in masses seek out the small monastery garden, the museum and the old walls. Opposite the island, on the western side of the river, there is an even more historic natural beauty: the oldest trees of the park, holm oaks with a trunk diameter of up to 40 cm, and downy oaks rooted here just as long create a particularly inspiring backdrop.

The next waterfall, Skradinski Buk, is about 5 km away, and along the whole stretch one can observe amphibians and marsh birds, which have become rare elsewhere, in their preferred habitat. Shortly before the next waterfall one can note a peculiarity in the rock: between the usual grain one suddenly sees soft and porous travertine — an indication that there used to be another waterfall here, but that it was gradually “sanded away” by the pressure of the masses of water and by erosion. In addition, at this point the Čikola flows together with the Krka, and the actually much deeper basin behind the former barrier is so well filled that hardly any difference from a regular river course is perceptible. The Čikola rises from an underground karst spring which forms the perfectly round lake Torak before it flows in a relatively narrow course towards the Krka. Because of this feeding from both sides, the Skradinski Buk is the richest in water and the most extensive waterfall in the region. Over 800 m in length and 17 steps the water falls a total of 45.7 metres, spreading to a width of up to 400 m. The sight of the Skradinski Buk has inspired authors to comparisons with fairies' veils, with white snow rolling solemnly over altars, with booming laughter and with water drops like thousands of narcissi; numerous painters have laboured at depicting this sight, yet the magic of this place is probably known only to the one who really lets it work upon him. Those interested in culture and history can visit mills here too, which once belonged among the country's most important. Grain from Zadar to Split was brought here to be processed into flour. A waterworks also stands here, which with a comparatively small output nevertheless damaged the ecosystem considerably, so that since the founding of the national park it serves almost only informative and touristic purposes. With the Skradinski Buk the fresh-water region of the Krka also ends, at least in the dry seasons. Depending on how much water flows in the Krka, the meeting with the salt water may occur only 5 kilometres downstream. In this the fresh water flowing towards the sea forms the upper layer, which can be up to 7 metres thick; beneath it the sea water pushes inland. Further towards the river mouth the masses of water mix more and more and the Krka becomes salty at the surface as well. In this region lies also the bridge of Skradin, which marks the boundary of the national park.